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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the fare, and this establishment definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar tasting menus at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic honour.